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The Wayuu: People of the sun, sand and wind photo by Tanenhaus (via Flckr)

The Wayuu: People of the sun, sand and wind

by : Becky Johnson posted :

A cultural adventure tour in Colombia is a life-changing experience. Spending time with indigenous people opens one's eyes to different ways of life and teaches a lot about the world. At the northernmost tip of the country, just west of the Venezuelan border, is the Department of La Guajira. Traveling through the mystical region is like stepping through a portal in time. The landscape ranges from semi-tropical forests, to deserts that spill the azure Caribbean Sea, making this remote part of Colombia a visual masterpiece. Though the living conditions in the dry desert region are often harsh, La Guajira is also the home of the indigenous Wayuu people – the people of the sun, sand and wind.

Mochilas
Mochilas

Migration and the battle for survival

The Wayuu migrated to La Guajira from the rainforests of Colombia in approximately 150 BCE to escape hostilities from warring tribes. They are clan people, comprising approximately 14 different clan groups, and span 4,171 miles across Colombia on 10 different reservations. Surprisingly, they were never conquered by the Spanish, but they did engage in numerous skirmishes throughout the 18th century, including destroying a mission in Capuchin. Tensions with the Colombian government were frequent in the past, but have lessened since the Wayuu people earned the right to be independent, with their own government, laws, and land.

Preserving the traditions of yesterday

Tradition and preserving the ways of the past are important to the Wayuu people. They live in small settlements, called rancherias, which are groupings of 5-6 homes. Visitors can stop by these settlements to buy bags or hammocks, or get a taste of friche – a local dish made with goat meat. If you are very lucky, you might catch a celebration, including the yonna dance, where the women drape themselves in colorful, full body wraps and dance to the beat of traditional drums. The clans are matrilineal, meaning they carry on their names and lineage through their mothers, and women are also taught the ancient art of weaving and crocheting. Mochilas are the famous bags made by the Wayuu women, and are famous around the world for their bold colors and intricate designs.

The Legend of Wale'kerü

According to legend, a spider named Wale'kerü was the first to teach the Wayuu women how to weave. Wale'kerü fell in love with a Wayuu man and they were so desperate to be together, they eloped! When they returned to his people, the man's mother gave Wale'kerü a gift of cotton. Wale'kerü consumed the gift, and soon produced spun cotton for weaving from her mouth! From that day on, Wale'kerü would spend her days weaving hammocks and mochilas. The Wayuu people had never seen anything so beautiful and they begged the spider to teach them how to weave these colorful creations. Wale' Kerü eventually relented, but decided she would only teach one Wayuu woman. This woman learned carefully and began to pass the tradition down to her daughter, and her daughter passed it down to her daughter, and so the Wayuu women keep the tradition alive.

Wayuu children photo by Mario Carvajal (via Flickr)
Wayuu children

The Future of the Wayuu

The Wayuu people have faced many years of discrimination and challenging conditions. El Niño and climate change have caused recent droughts, which has impacted farming and caused some animals to die of dehydration. In response, many clans are using tourism as a means of sustainability. Tourists are being invited to experience local traditions and celebrations, and have an opportunity to buy handcrafted items. Any trip to La Guajira should include a visit to one of these settlements to experience their unique culture. The Wayuu make up 20% of Colombia's indigenous population and are an important part of its rich history and future.

Learn more about the Wayuu and experience their fascinating world in Uncharted Colombia's La Guajira adventure tour.

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